
It's time to look for a new blended whisky.
I was somewhat surprised this week to hear that the company behind black grouse whisky (and the Famous Grouse) is ambivalent towards shooting and moorland management. The publishers of my black grouse book sent a representative of Edrington Group a PDF of the text and images in the hope that some sort of a tie-in would work to the advantage of both parties. They received a reply containing words to the effect that the Edrington Group needs to be viewed as “neutral” on the subject of shooting and does not endorse the practice in any way. They added that their close relationship with the RSPB would make their association with my book a definite “no”.
I wonder how many shooting parties have raised a glass of Famous Grouse on the morning of the 12th or how many guns who have received bottles as gifts. I suppose that we infer the link between grouse and shooting because the two go hand in hand for us – it was certainly a link that the first “Grouse distiller” Matthew Gloag would have been aware of when he blended whisky for Queen Victoria. It just seems like that what was once a convenient marketing angle faded out alongside shooting’s popular public image, leaving the Famous Grouse and its subsidiary the Black Grouse with the faint overtone of being a sportsman’s drink but without any of the actual substance associated with that link.
Shooting doesn’t own black or red grouse and we have no right to complain that our iconic gamebirds have been recast for a wider commercial audience. My problem is that the distillers claim to be neutral by supporting the RSPB – surely neutrality would imply that they have no association with grouse or habitat management in any way? In fact, they have fallen squarely into the RSPB camp and, like many representatives from that very opinionated and wholly un-neutral charity, have acquired something of the opinion that shooting is bad and sportsmen are nothing more than harrier throttling toffs. They are not above allowing the historic links between grouse and shooting to continue because God knows it’s a profitable one, but when it actually comes to the crunch, they shy away from endorsing the sport which must have kept that brand afloat for much of its 115 years of existence.
You would think that if they had wanted to cast off links with shooting, they could have created a brand of whisky which ties in with the theme of grouse conservation but which no longer has connotations for shooting – but the only protected British member of the grouse family which doesn’t have a Edrington branded drink named after it is the capercaillie… Ptarmigan (renamed Snow Grouse, presumably because of the tricky pronunciation), black grouse and red grouse are all whiskies named after legal quarry species, but the most endangered British grouse species of all gets none of the attention generated by widespread publicity and a 50p donation with every bottle sold. Would it be cynical to suggest that a big percentage of these “grouse whiskies” are, if not aimed at then gently nudged towards a shooting community (in Britain and abroad) known for its affluence? Is the reason that we don’t see a whisky called capercaillie (which, if ptarmigan was too much of a mouthful, would probably be renamed Muckle Grouse) on the shelves at Tesco because that great cock of the woods is no longer on the sportsman’s radar?
It sounds like sour grapes because they refused to promote my book, but if they had come out and said that they didn’t like it, I’d have been happy. As it is, they skirted the issue and let slip some dirty home truths about British conservation. Perhaps the RSPB believes that they have stolen a march on shooting charities by claiming the monopoly on black grouse conservation – who knows? What is certain is that the alliance between the RSPB and Edrington was sealed in some airconditioned meeting room in Edinburgh by men and women who had one primary objective – not to conserve birds but to make money.
After my book is long forgotten and the last bottle of RSPB/Edrington brand whisky is drained, the most important thing will be whether or not we still have black grouse in this country. Conservation is about actually fixing environmental problems, preserving biodiversity and improving the health of the natural world, not about bickering between two groups of people who look after the countryside in different ways. Our objective is to restore black grouse to a position of prominence, whether by a donation to the RSPB or by shooting foxes. Black grouse have enough problems without humans wasting time with an argument over the best way to conserve them.
I can offer only one piece of advice in the meantime – don’t drink snow grouse, it’s disgusting.